DID YOU KNOW? Did you know that the Chehalis River is the largest watershed contained wholly within Washington State? The Chehalis River and its tributaries cover 2,700 square miles and drain the Willapa Hills to the south, the Cascade Mountains to the south and east, and the Black Hills, northern Willapa Hills, and the Olympic Mountains to the North. The Chehalis River flows through Grays Harbor estuaries before entering the Pacific Ocean. The Chehalis River Watershed supports diverse wildlife and provides many ecosystem services leading to a concerted effort to conserve, restore, and protect the river and its tributaries.
CHEHALIS RIVER STRATEGY. The Chehalis River Watershed is the focus of flood, habitat, and wildlife management, much of which is organized via the Chehalis Basin Strategy. The Strategy focuses on both reducing flood damage and restoring aquatic species, particularly for the freshwater forms of Pacific salmon. The Strategy was developed and managed through the collaborative work of many partners including federal, tribal, state, municipal, and non-governmental organizations. The Chehalis Basin Strategy has designated ecoregions for use in management of the watershed including the Grays Harbor Tributaries. The Grays Harbor Tributaries are the westernmost rivers of the watershed, including small streams and wetlands in Ocean Shores and Westport. These rivers and streams flow directly into Grays Harbor. Although considered a harbor and bay, Grays Harbor is also classified as a river, thus the Chehalis River flows all the way to the mouth of the Harbor where it flows directly into the Pacific Ocean.
GRAYS HARBOR TRIBUTARIES: WILDLIFE GALORE. A mild coastal climate combined with relatively good remaining forest and riparian habitats supports diverse wildlife species including Roosevelt elk, black-tailed deer, cougars, black bear, river otters, beaver, muskrat, bald eagles, ospreys, great blue heron, goldeneye, and wood duck, to list a few. Species of anadromous Pacific salmon historically found in these tributaries include fall-run Chinook salmon, coho salmon, chum salmon, and steelhead. Many other species of fish such as the Olympic mudminnow and mountain whitefish are found here, and amphibians include the western toad, coastal tailed frog, Van Dyke’s salamander, and northern red-legged frog.
NORTHERN GRAYS HARBOR TRIBUTARIES. The Humptulips River has already been the subject of a blog for the Coastal Interpretive Center. Herein the focus is on the Hoquiam and Wishkah Rivers which are located to the east of the Humptulips River. Both are relatively low energy rivers which are heavily influenced by the tides from the Pacific Ocean via Grays Harbor. Other smaller tributaries include Grass and Chenois Creeks, two small tidal streams.
Hoquiam River. The Hoquiam River flows about six miles from relatively low elevation headwaters to the Harbor. It forms from the confluence of the Little Hoquiam with the West, Middle, and East Forks of the Hoquiam River. The Hoquiam River Watershed covers 98 square miles and much of the land was privately owned by the timber industry, historically. Early timber practices involving clear cutting resulted in high amounts of sediment carried by the rivers into Grays Harbor. In addition, these rivers served as floating highways for downstream timber transport. More recently, forestry and timber industry practices include conservation measures particularly in support of Pacific salmon. Work organized by the Chehalis Basin Lead Entity restored part of the Middle Fork Hoquiam River as a Sitka spruce wetland for to assist in Pacific salmon recovery (see the Coastal Interpretive Center’s Coastal Watersheds exhibit to view a video showing this work). The Hoquiam River enters Grays Harbor at the town of Hoquiam. The riverside walkway, located along the east/north side of the river best accessed at the Grays Harbor Farmer’s Market provides wildlife and river viewing opportunities in the Hoquiam and Wishkah Watersheds.
Wishkah River. The Wishkah River is east of the Hoquiam River and flows 40 miles from headwater to Harbor with a watershed covering 102 square miles. Major tributaries include the West and East Forks Wishkah River. Unlike the Hoquiam River, some tributaries of the mainstem are high elevation originating near Cougar Mountain (1654 feet).
The Olympic Wildlife Recreation Area is managed by the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife. It encompasses 767 acres within the upper Wishkah Watershed. This area is popular all year long and is reached easily by traveling north of Aberdeen along Wishkah Road. It has many small tributary streams of the Wishkah River as well as the West Fork and mainstem of the Wishkah River. It is used for hiking, biking, birding, and other wildlife viewing. The Wishkah River enters Grays Harbor in the town of Aberdeen and can be seen best along the Aberdeen Waterfront Walkway, accessed at the Morrison Riverfront Park. Upstream, the river can be accessed from the Kurt Cobain Under the Bridge Memorial Park.
SOUTHERN GRAYS HARBOR TRIBUTARIES. Tributaries on the south side of the Chehalis River and Grays Harbor have headwater originating at lower elevations than the north side tributaries and a greater percentage of these rivers are tidally influenced. Elk River and Johns River are the two largest tributaries, but many small, tidal tributaries enter the harbor from the south including O’Leary, Stafford, and Chapin Creeks.
Elk River. The Elk River is the westernmost tributary on the south side of the Chehalis River and Grays Harbor. This is a short tributary flowing from low hills dividing Grays Harbor from Willapa Bay. The main tributaries include the West Fork of Andrews Creek, Andrews Creek, and the West, Middle and East Branches of Elk River. These small streams flow a short distance along an elevational gradient from an elevation of 183 feet to sea level where they form the tidally influenced mainstem of the Elk River and Elk River estuary. The Elk River estuary is the best intact estuary remaining on Oregon and Washington’s Pacific Coast.
The Washington Department of Natural Resources (WA DNR) manages the Elk River Natural Resources Conservation Area. The management area covers 5,560 acres of the Elk River Watershed ranging from tide flats and sloughs to a variety of freshwater wetlands and forested uplands. These lands support elk, bear, bald eagles, osprey, river otter, and beaver. WA DNR conserves the Elk River to manage stopover habitat for shorebirds and waterfowl. The Elk River Natural Resources Conservation Area is accessible by water, but if you are kayaking or canoeing the region, keep an eye on the tide to avoid being stranded. WDFW also manages 1990 acres of the estuary along the southwest and west shores of the estuary and management focuses on estuary restoration including salt marsh and tide flats.
Johns River. The Johns River Watershed is located east of Elk River. Johns River is 15 miles long formed from the confluence of the South Fork and North Fork Johns River. It flows from an elevation of 219 feet in low Willapa Hills to sea level forming an important estuary as it enters Grays Harbor.
The Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife (WDFW) manages 1358 acres of the watershed in the Johns River Wildlife Area Unit. This unit is easy to access from HWY 105 and has a parking lot, boat launch, and walking trail. The WDFW manages the watershed to support wildlife such as Roosevelt elk, black-tailed deer, black bear, and bobcats. The estuary is formed from sediments carried downstream from the Johns River, deposited at the mouth forming salt marshes and mudflats. The WDFW manages this unit to conserve migratory shorebirds and waterfowl. Upstream of the mouth, old dikes and the walking trail provide excellent birding and wildlife viewing opportunities.
RECREATION OPPORTUNITIES. As noted above, wildlife conservation and recreation areas are located within some of these tributary watersheds. Here are some other areas that provide opportunities for recreation, wildlife viewing, or hunting in the Chehalis River’s Grays Harbor Tributaries bioregion of the Chehalis Basin Strategy.
Grays Harbor Wildlife Refuge. The Grays Harbor National Wildlife Refuge is located along the north shore of Grays Harbor just west of Hoquiam on the Bowerman Basin. The refuge conserves and preserves some of the best shorebird habitat along the Pacific Flyway south of Alaska and is managed as part of the Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge Complex. The Refuge offers recreation opportunities including the 0.71 mile-long Sandpiper Trail boardwalk that snakes through salt marsh and forest with numerous benches located so that visitors can view wildlife, particularly migratory shorebirds and waterfowl. Hunting is not allowed.
Oyhut Wildlife Recreation Area. The Oyhut Unit and the other units listed below are all part of the Johns River Wildlife Area. The Oyhut Unit is also called the Oyhut Wildlife Recreation Area and it manages 659 acres of estuary, salt marsh, scrubland, open wetland, and shoreline. Located on the south end of Ocean Shores and Point Brown Peninsula, the Oyhut Wildlife Recreation Area is easily accessed and has trails making it a popular birding destination, particularly during the spring shorebird migration. The unit is also managed for waterfowl hunting. In addition to recreation, birding, and hunting the unit conserves these habitats for the western snowy plover, a Washington state-listed endangered and federally listed threatened species.
Ocean Shores Airport Unit. The Ocean Shores Airport Unit manages 186 acres of salt marsh habitat crossed by deeply incised tide channels that support native crabs and fish as well as the invasive European green crab. The unit is located on the east side of the Ocean Shores along Point Brown Peninsula and is easily accessed from the Ocean Shores Airport parking. Waterfowl and black-tailed deer hunting are allowed, and the site provides amazing year-round birding opportunities. This unit is maintained in a natural state and primarily managed for hunting opportunities.
Humptulips-Grass Creek Wildlife Area Unit. The Humptilips-Grass Creek Unit manages 238 acres of river, estuary, and coastal forest habitat along the north side of Grays Harbor. The unit is easy to reach through a fishing road to the Humptulips River off WA State Hwy 109. A boat ramp provides access to the Humptulips River, and fishing is excellent; however, lack of trails makes exploring the coastal forest in the unit difficult at best. Conservation and management foci for the unit include salmon recovery, estuary and tidal channel preservation, and waterfowl habitat conservation.
South Grays Harbor Unit. The South Grays Harbor Unit manages 746 acres of Grays Harbor estuary and shoreline habitat along HWY 105 between Aberdeen and Westport. This unit does not have parking, but can be accessed off HWY 105, so care should be taken when accessing this site, particularly during the busy summer traffic. Exploring the coastal forests and tidal streams and sloughs provides excellent opportunities for birding. Waterfowl hunting is a popular use of the unit.
VISIT AND EXPLORE. Restoration and conservation efforts in this region support the culturally and economically important Pacific salmon and salmon fisheries leading to ample opportunities for recreation and wildlife viewing along Washington’s Pacific Coast. We encourage you to get out and see what the Chehalis River’s Grays Harbor Tributaries region of Washington’s Pacific Coast has to offer.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
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Chehalis Basin Strategy. 2024. Aquatic Species Restoration Plan Documents: Ecoregions. https://chehalisbasinstrategy.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/ASRP-Ecoregions.pdf. (Last accessed 3 May 2024).
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Hayford, B.L. 2023. Humptulips River Watershed – Coastal Interpretive Center. https://interpretivecenter.org/humptulips-river-watershed/. (Last accessed 16 April 2024).
RCO. 2024. Restoration of the Middle Hoquiam Watershed. https://srp.rco.wa.gov/project/120/89495. (Last accessed 29 April 2024).
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Washington State Government. 2024. Chehalis River Basin Flood Authority. 2024. Chehalis River Basin Flood Authority (wa.gov). (Last accessed 3 May 2024).
WDFW. 2024. Elk River Wildlife Area Unit. https://wdfw.wa.gov/places-to-go/wildlife-areas/elk-river-wildlife-area-unit. (Last accessed 3 May 2024)
WDFW. 2024. Johns River Wildlife Area. https://wdfw.wa.gov/places-to-go/wildlife-areas/johns-river-wildlife-area. (Last accessed 3 May 2024).
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WDFW. 2024. Olympic Wildlife Area Unit. https://wdfw.wa.gov/places-to-go/wildlife-areas/olympic-wildlife-area-unit. (Last accessed 3 May 2024).
© Barbara Hayford, May 2024